Breed Information

American Cocker Spaniels

The "popular Cocker Spaniel", referred to as the American Cocker Spaniel, was derived over time through careful breeding of English Cocker Spaniels brought to the United States. The American Cocker Spaniel is smaller than the English Cocker, and has a different conformation. The head is domed with a chiseled, abrupt stop. The snout is broad but short in comparison to that of it's "English counterpart", with the upper lip hanging down past the lower jaw forming jowls. Ears are quite long and hang on either side of the head. The body is compact with a short back: the topline characteristically slopes downward gradually from front to rear. The tail is docked appx. two-fifths (40%) of its original length at a very young age. Front legs are straight and sturdy. The dewclaws (i.e., vestigial "thumbs") on all four legs should be removed at the time the tail is docked. The coat is luxuriant, medium in length, feathered, and comes in a broad range of solid and parti-colors (e.g., buff, black, black & tan, red & white). The breed is a modest-to-average shedder. Commonly, they range in size from 14 - 15 inches (shoulder-height) and in weight from 24 - 28 pounds. Their average life expectancy is about 12 - 15 years.

Temperament - American Cocker Spaniels are cheerful, trusting dogs with "average" intelligence. They are good with children, and are well suited as household pets. Cockers are naturally "people-oriented", and are characteristically wonderful "lap dogs".

We offer individuals of rare colors (e.g., chocolate, tri/parti), as well as popular solid colors (i.e., buff, black). Ours are extra-petite, "apartment-size" dogs with personality and "smarts"!

Cockapoos

Cockapoos (or cockerpoos, as sometimes called) are the hybrid resulting from the cross between the American Cocker Spaniel and the Poodle. Although believed to have first appeared during the 1960's in the United States as a result of "unplanned mating", cockapoos have been sharply rising in popularity over the past decade. So much so, that large numbers of "breeders" have been frivolously crossing nearly any two breeds of small dog, and marketing those puppies as "cockapoos". Fortunately, however, many people who are dedicated to the "success" of this splendid hybrid have been striving to establish it as a recognized "breed".

Caracteristics which have made "genuine cockapoos" endearing to so many people are:

a non-shedding, non-allergenic, softly-curling coat
above-average intelligence
"spunky", playful behavior
ease in training

Temperament - Cockapoos are very friendly, intelligent, fun-loving dogs, and are wonderful with both children and adults. They are quite friendly towards other dogs and housepets (including cats). Cockapoos are easily obedience-trained, and they excel in agility training & competition.

The crossing of our own black, red, or parti-colored toy poodles (6 - 8 lbs. avg.) with our wonderful American Cocker Spaniels results in a small- to medium-sized Cockapoo with a soft & curly non-shedding, non-allergenic coat. These dogs, although not (yet!) recognized by the AKC, have the "brains" and outstanding temperament that are characteristic of all our parent breed lines.

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Color Patterns

Cockapoos can be found in a variety of basic colors, as well as shades, blends and mixes of these basic colors. There are so many variations that we decided to put together a list of colors, descriptions of these colors, and photos of individuals displaying some of the colors described below. We hope that the color descriptions plus the pictures will help those who are searching for a particular color or those who have seen a particular color but were unable to put a name to it:

Black/Tan: referred to as Phantom in describing Cockapoos and Poodles, is characterized by markings similar to a Rottweiler or Doberman. The markings, usually on the legs, eyebrows, beard/mustache, inside of ears and under tail, can be dark brown, rust, cream or silver.
White: seen mainly in 2nd- and further generations of Cockapoos as white is a recessive color gene. True AKC Cocker Spaniels should not possess the gene for white hair.
Buff: the most popular and most common color seen in Cocker Spaniels and Cockapoos. Buffs, like blondes, can vary in shade from the palest cream to a deep strawberry-blonde. This color is sometimes referred to as "tan", but dog people do not use this term.
Apricot or Red: these names refer to the same color. Poodles are referred to as Apricots, whereas Cocker Spaniels are referred to as Reds. Apricot Cockapoos range in shade from a deep strawberry-blonde to a deep, rich red similar to Irish Setter red. The point where Buff differentiates from Apricot is "in the eye of the beholder". Sable - Sable is a dilute of the chocolate or black gene. If the base (newborn) color is chocolate, the dog's second (adult) coat will come in gold or mixed silver/gold with brown tipping on ears, beard/mustache, and sometimes tip of tail and feet. If the base coat color is black, the second coat will grow in silver (pale silver to deep charcoal gray). Tipping will be black. Sometimes there will be a black stripe down along the spine, similar to that of a dun horse.
Chocolate: as the name implies. Chocolates can range from light milk chocolate to deep, bittersweet chocolate in color.
Silver Beige: A chocolate that has silver-white hairs throughout the brown base (roaning). Ears, face, legs and tail usually remain dark brown or mahogany. Silver beige is seen more often in Poodles but breeding silver Poodles to Cocker Spaniels with chocolate factoring will produce Silver Beige.
Parti Colors: Any coat color with a foundation of White and spots or patches of another color. There are Black/White parti, Buff/White parti, Red/White, Chocolate/White, Sable/White and probably others.
Tri-Colors: Any coat with a foundation of White, spots/patches of another color and trim in a 3rd color. Two examples are Black/White/Tan and Chocolate/White/Tan.

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Puppy Stage

The apple doesn't fall far from the tree, especially for dogs. The fact is, well-socialized dogs are more likely to have well-socialized puppies. Pups often mirror their mothers' calm or fearful attitude toward people; this is a normal part of their socialization. But you can play a vital role, too, by petting, talking, and playing with puppy to help him develop good "people skills."

Puppies are usually weaned at six to seven weeks, but are still learning important skills as their mother gradually leaves them for longer periods of time. Ideally, puppies should stay with their littermates (or other "role-model" dogs) for at least 7-8 weeks. Puppies separated from their littermates too early often fail to develop appropriate "social skills," such as learning how to send and receive signals, what an "inhibited bite" (acceptable mouthing pressure) means, how far to go in play-wrestling, and so forth. Play is important for puppies because it increases their physical coordination, social skills, and learning limits. By interacting with their mother and littermates, puppies explore the ranking process ("who's in charge") and also learn "how to be a dog." Skills not acquired during the first eight weeks may be lost forever. While these stages are important and fairly consistent, a dog's mind remains receptive to new experiences and lessons well beyond puppyhood. Most dogs are still puppies, in mind and body, through the first two years of life

Here are general guidelines for puppies' stages of development

Birth to Two Weeks: Neonatal Period: Puppy is most influenced by his mother. Senses of touch and taste are present at birth.
Two to Four Weeks: Transitional Period: Puppy is most influenced by his mother and littermates. Eyes open, teeth begin to come in, and senses of hearing and smell develop. Puppy begins to stand, walk a little, wag tail, and bark. By the fourth or fifth week, eyesight is well-developed.
Three to Twelve Weeks: Socialization Period: During this period, puppy needs opportunities to meet other dogs and people. By 3 to 5 weeks, puppy becomes aware of his surroundings, companions (both canine and human), and relationships, including play. By 4 to 6 weeks, puppy is most influenced by littermates and is learning about being a dog. From 4 to 12 weeks, puppy remains influenced by littermates and is also influenced by people. Puppy learns to play, develops social skills, learns the inhibited bite, explores social structure/ranking, and improves physical coordination. By 5 to 7 weeks, puppy develops curiosity and explores new experiences. Puppy needs positive "people" experiences during this time. By 7 to 9 weeks, puppy is refining his physical skills and coordination, and can begin to be housetrained. Puppy has full use of senses. By 8 to 10 weeks, puppy experiences real fear involving normal objects and experiences; puppy needs positive training during this time. By 9 to 12 weeks, puppy is refining reactions, developing social skills with littermates (appropriate interactions), and exploring the environment and objects. Puppy begins to focus on people; this is a good time to begin training.
Three to Six Months: Ranking Period: Puppy is most influenced by "playmates," which may now include those of other species. Puppy begins to see and use ranking (dominance and submission) within the household (the puppy's "pack"), including humans. Puppy begins teething (and associated chewing). At 4 months of age, puppy experiences another fear stage.
Six to Eighteen Months: Adolescence: Puppy is most influenced by human and dog "pack" members. At seven to nine months, puppy goes through a second chewing phase, part of exploring territory. Puppy increases exploration of dominance, including challenging humans. If not spayed or neutered, puppy experiences beginnings of sexual behavior.
Copyright © 2004 The Humane Society of the United States.

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House Training Your Cockapoo

Contrary to popular belief, housetraining a puppy requires far more than a few stacks of old newspapers—it calls for vigilance, patience, and plenty of commitment. By following the procedures outlined below, you can minimize house soiling incidents, but virtually every puppy will have an accident in the house, and more likely, several. Expect this—it's part of raising a puppy. The more consistent you are in following the basic housetraining procedures, however, the faster your puppy will learn acceptable behavior. It may take several weeks to housetrain your puppy, and with some of the smaller breeds, it might take longer.

Like babies, puppies do best on a regular schedule. Take your puppy outside frequently—at least every two hours—and immediately after he wakes up from a nap, after playing, and after eating or drinking. Praise your puppy lavishly every time he eliminates outdoors—you can even give him a treat—but remember to do so immediately after he's finished eliminating, not after he comes back inside the house. This step is vital, because rewarding your dog for eliminating outdoors is the only way he'll know what's expected of him.

Pick a bathroom spot near the door, and always take your puppy to that spot using a leash. Take him out for a longer walk or some playtime only after he has eliminated. If you clean up an accident in the house, take the soiled rags or paper towels and leave them in the bathroom spot. The smell will help your puppy recognize the area as the place he is supposed to eliminate. While your puppy is eliminating, use a word or phrase, like "go potty," that you can eventually use before he eliminates to remind him what to do.

Put your puppy on a regular feeding schedule and feed a high-quality diet to make housetraining easier. Depending on their age, puppies usually need to be fed three or four times a day. Feeding your puppy at the same times each day will make it more likely that he'll eliminate at consistent times as well, and that makes housetraining easier for both of you.

Keep Your Eyes Peeled

Don't give your puppy an opportunity to soil in the house; keep an eye on him whenever he's indoors. You can tether him to you with a six-foot leash, or use baby gates to keep him in the room where you are. Watch for signs that he needs to eliminate, like sniffing around or circling. When you see these signs, immediately grab the leash and take him outside to his bathroom spot. If he eliminates, praise him lavishly and reward him with a treat.

Confinement

When you're unable to watch your puppy at all times, he should be confined to an area small enough that he won't want to eliminate there. The space should be just big enough for him to comfortably stand, lie down, and turn around in. You can use a portion of a bathroom or laundry room blocked off with baby gates. Or you may want to crate train your puppy and use the crate to confine him. (Be sure to learn how to use a crate humanely as a method of confinement.) If your puppy has spent several hours in confinement, you'll need to take him directly to his bathroom spot as soon as you let him out, and praise him when he eliminates.

Oops!

Expect your puppy to have a few accidents in the house—it's a normal part of housetraining. Here's what to do when that happens:

When you catch him in the act of eliminating in the house, do something to interrupt him, like make a startling noise (be careful not to scare him). Immediately take him to his bathroom spot, praise him, and give him a treat if he finishes eliminating there.

Don't punish your puppy for eliminating in the house. If you find a soiled area, it's too late to administer a correction. Just clean it up. Rubbing your puppy's nose in it, taking him to the spot and scolding him, or any other punishment will only make him afraid of you or afraid to eliminate in your presence. In fact, punishment will often do more harm than good.

Cleaning the soiled area is very important because puppies are highly motivated to continue soiling in areas that smell like urine or feces.

It's extremely important that you use the supervision and confinement procedures outlined above to prevent the number of accidents. If you allow your puppy to eliminate frequently in the house, he'll get confused about where he's supposed to eliminate, which will prolong the housetraining process.

Paper Training

A puppy under six months of age cannot be expected to control his bladder for more than a few hours at a time. If you have to be away from home more than four or five hours a day, this may not be the best time for you to get a puppy; instead, you may want to consider an older dog, who can wait for your return.

But if you're already committed to having a puppy and must be away for long periods of time, you'll need to make arrangements for someone, such as a responsible neighbor or a professional pet sitter, to take him outside to eliminate. Or you'll need to train him to eliminate in a specific place indoors. Be aware, however, that doing so can prolong the process of housetraining. Teaching your puppy to eliminate on newspaper may create a life-long surface preference, meaning that even as an adult he may eliminate on any newspaper lying around the living room.

When your puppy must be left alone for long periods of time, confine him to an area with enough room for a sleeping space, a playing space, and a separate place to eliminate. In the area designated as the elimination area, use either newspapers or a sod box. To make a sod box, place sod in a container such as a child's small, plastic swimming pool. You can also find dog litter products at a pet supply store. If you clean up an accident in the house, put the soiled rags or paper towels in the designated elimination area. The smell will help your puppy recognize the area as the place where he is supposed to eliminate.

Other Types of House-Soiling Problems

If you've consistently followed the housetraining procedures and your puppy continues to eliminate in the house, there may be another reason for his behavior, such as…

Medical Problems: House soiling can often be caused by physical problems such as a urinary tract infection or a parasite infection. Check with your veterinarian to rule out any possibility of disease or illness.
Submissive/Excitement Urination: Some dogs, especially young ones, temporarily lose control of their bladders when they become excited or feel threatened. This usually occurs during greetings or periods of intense play, or when they're about to be punished. Territorial Urine-Marking: Dogs sometimes deposit small amounts of urine or feces to scent-mark their territory. Both male and female dogs do this, and it most often occurs when they believe their territory has been invaded.
Separation Anxiety:: Dogs who become anxious when they're left alone may house soil as a result. Usually, there are other symptoms as well, such as destructive behavior or vocalization.
Fears or Phobias:: When animals become frightened, they may lose control of their bladder and/or bowels. If your puppy is afraid of loud noises, such as thunderstorms or fireworks, he may house soil when he's exposed to these sounds.

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Male vs Female

I get so many calls a day saying "Oh I have just got to have one of your FEMALE Cockapoos" sometime I just want to scream "Just what is wrong with a little boy?"

Little boys are usually more obedient...loyal.... loving.... and eager to please Neutered males (age 4-6 months) will not do those nasty little boy things like hiking on the furniture as the hormones will not have the chance to come down.

Little boys tend to love the entire family where a little girl will get her favorite and stick to that person most often.... they are also more territorial. Any breeder will tell you not to get 2 females...but it is perfectly fine to have 2 males...kind of tells you something there.

Don’t take just my word for any of it, call your vet, call other breeders, and ask for their opinion.

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